As a result of anti-pilling research, a variety of test methods have emerged. It is usually required that the hair bulbs produced by the test should be close to the actual consumption conditions. In addition, because the laboratory test should be done before the actual wear test, the laboratory test must be quickly pilled. This makes the fabric more stressed than it actually is. In principle, the test fabric is placed on a moderate friction object, and the friction movement in various directions is performed with a small pressure and tension. The following points should be considered for this kind of test: (1) The sample area should be as large as possible to exclude local differences in the surface properties of the fabric and to obtain an overall picture of the fabric pilling. (2) The test specimens should be tested with no tension as far as possible, or under the smallest tension that can be controlled, because strong tension will cause the fibers to coalesce strongly. And thus give the illusion of a lower tendency to pilling. (3) The frictional pressure of the friction object on the sample should be as small as possible. In order to achieve a soft friction effect similar to actual consumption. (4) The friction object should be wear-resistant and have uniform surface roughness, so that the friction effect remains constant during the test and the test can be repeated. (5) The relative movement between the sample and the friction object is generally a curve rather than a linear movement, which can make the fibers of the sample easy to entangle. (6) The relative movement speed should be larger, so that the pilling test can be completed quickly. The various pilling test methods can be classified into two categories: 1. Sample fixation In the same form as the abrasion test, the sample is moved actively. Such methods are further divided into two categories: one is to pre-fluff the sample with a vigorous friction material, and then use a soft friction material for friction. Figure (a) is a schematic diagram of this type of
tester, and the pressure can be self-heavy or weighted. This method is commonly used in filament knitted fabrics, wool fabrics, chemical fiber pure spinning, blended knitted fabrics and woven fabrics. The other type is to test only with soft friction bodies. Figure (b) is the principle diagram of this kind of tester, which is to roll the sample on the rubber tube as shown in the figure, and make irregular movement and friction in the rotating box lined with cork. The effect of this method is close to the practical wearing effect of tightly organized fabrics. 2. The method of free turning movement of the sample in the box Figure 1 is its schematic diagram in a cylinder lined with rubber (cork). The three samples were stirred at the same time by a rotating blade to impart irregular buckling kneading and friction. This form has a high correlation with practicality. Figure 2 is a commonly used fabric pilling instrument. It separates the pilling and pilling of the fabric. First, rub the fabric sample with a nylon brush for a certain number of times to make the surface of the fabric fluffy, and then rub the sample with the abrasive fabric for pilling. The trajectory of the relative movement of the sample and the abrasive is circular, and the sample is ground 60 times per minute. The instrument is equipped with an electromagnetic counter. When the predetermined number of frictions is reached, the test is automatically stopped. The pilling instrument is suitable for ten chemical fiber filament fabrics and chemical fiber staple fabrics. When only fabric is used as abrasive, it can be used for wool fabrics and other fabrics that are prone to pilling. The sample used in the instrument needs to be humidified in standard atmosphere for more than 24 hours, and then the test is carried out. The sample should be 1/10 of the selvage edge. Randomly cut 3 pieces (5 pieces of wool fabric samples) within the width, and the samples with a self-diameter of 112.8mm shall not have any defects that affect the test results. The pressure of the sample on the abrasive varies with different types of fabrics. The domestic standard stipulates that the pressure of the chemical fiber filament fabric and the chemical fiber staple fabric is 588cN; the combed wool fabric is 784cN; the carded wool fabric is 490cN. The regulations are: polyester low-elastic filament knitted fabric, first on the nylon brush, then on the abrasive fabric, each grinding 150 rpm; polyester low-elastic filament and chemical fiber staple fabric first on the nylon brush, and then on the abrasive fabric. Grind for 50 rpm; for combed wool fabrics, grind 60 rpm on abrasive fabrics; for carded wool fabrics, grind 50 rpm. Then put the sample in the rating box, compare it with the standard sample, and evaluate the fabric pilling grade. The characteristics of the Martindale type abrasion tester are: the sample fabric is rubbed on the sample chuck with the same fabric installed on the grinding table. The sample rotates freely around the axis, the relative movement trajectory of the sample chuck and the grinding table is a Lissajous figure, and the relative movement speed is 45-48r/min. For various fabrics, the pressure on the abrasive is 196cN ( 200gf) and other dry grinding head weight. This instrument is suitable for wool fabrics and other fabrics that are prone to pilling, and is more suitable for woven fabrics. However, it is not suitable for fabrics with a thickness of more than 3mm, because such fabrics cannot be loaded into the sample holder.
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