ICI rolling box type pilling tester to detect the pilling analysis of cashmere fabrics

As we all know, the fabric is constantly subjected to various external forces during the wearing process, and the continuous action of external friction makes the plush entangle into a ball and bulge on the surface of the fabric. This phenomenon is called fabric pilling. Therefore, we should pay attention to the pilling resistance of fabrics when designing fabrics, selecting clothing fabrics or monitoring the quality of fabrics. 

Manufacturers, welcome to inquire. 

The process of fabric pilling: 

(a) represents the original fabric; 

(b) represents the first stage, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are pulled out from the fabric due to continuous friction to produce plush; 

(c) represents the second stage, the fibers that have not fallen off are mutually entanglement and aggravate the extraction of fibers; 

(d) represents the third stage, the fibers are entangled more and more tightly, forming small spherulites; 

(e) represents the fourth stage, the fibers connecting the spherulites are broken or pulled out;

(f) Indicates the fifth state, with some spherulites falling off. Influencing factors of pilling of cashmere knitted fabrics: Among the many influencing factors of fabric pilling, such as fiber properties, textile process parameters (yarn twist and fabric structure), post-dyeing and finishing processing, conditions when wearing and wearing, etc., among them, fiber Properties are the main cause of fabric pilling. 

1. Raw material properties Cashmere fiber is thin and short with small curl, the cross section is close to circular, the elongation and elasticity are good, the bending stiffness is low, and the fatigue resistance is good. These properties make the fabric prone to pilling; among them The linter percentage, length and length dispersion of the fibers are the main influencing factors. Therefore, in the processing of cashmere products, cashmere raw materials must be reasonably selected according to the performance and use of the product, and combined with other technological means to effectively control the pilling of cashmere fabrics. 

2. Spinning twist For knitted products, under the premise of considering raw material factors, the main factor that affects spinning on pilling is the yarn twist. The yarn twist size and the ratio of twist coefficient directly affect the pilling of the fabric. . In the yarn twist, the single yarn twist determines the degree of cohesion between fibers, and the plied yarn twist determines the balance of the internal stress of the yarn, so the single yarn twist is the key factor in determining pilling. 

3. Weaving parameters For cashmere knitted fabrics, the weaving density is inversely proportional to the loop length. The weaving density of single jersey fabrics is small, and the loop length is large. When the surface of the fabric is rubbed by external force, the fibers in the yarn are blocked. The force of its swimming out of the yarn surface is small, and the fiber end is easy to stick out of the yarn, which increases the probability of fabric pilling. 

4. Dyeing process In the production process, the dyeing process will affect the indicators of the raw materials. The time, temperature and pH value of the dyeing process are the three elements to ensure the dyeing quality, but these are also factors that affect the fiber indicators. When arranging the feeding, the technicians should take into account the degree of damage to the raw materials in the dyeing process, so as to make full use of the various indicators of the raw materials. The index values of the raw materials before and after dyeing have obvious changes, the length is reduced, the length dispersion is increased or decreased, and the short pile rate is increased. It can be seen that the dyeing has an impact on the raw materials, thereby affecting the pilling performance of the product. 

5. Post-finishing process The post-finishing process of cashmere knitwear usually refers to the finishing process that the yarn needs to go through after it is woven into a garment and before the finished product, mainly including milling, special finishing (such as anti-pilling, anti-shrinking, etc.) and finishing Hot styling, etc. Milling is an important part of the finishing process of cashmere knitted fabrics. The main process factors that affect the milling effect are: shrinking agent, bath ratio, temperature, pH value, time, mechanical force, etc. Whether the milling process is reasonable or not, directly It affects the appearance quality, finished product specifications and pilling performance of the product. Test method for pilling performance of cashmere products: Experience has shown that when cashmere products are tested by Martindale and random drum methods, the results are difficult to reach level 3 and above. 

For cashmere knitted fabrics, the applicable anti-pilling test method is the ICI pilling box method, which is now carried out on GB/T 4802.3 (hereinafter referred to as GB), ISO 12945-1 (hereinafter referred to as ISO) and JSL1076 A (hereinafter referred to as JIS) method The comparison is as follows: 

1. The pilling test box GB is consistent with the requirements for the rotating box in the ISO standard, the size is 235mm cube, the thickness of the cork liner is 3.2mm, and the replacement cycle is not specified; the size specified in the JIS standard is 23mm cube , the thickness of the cork liner is (3±0.2) mm, density (0.25±0.03) g/mm2, the tensile strength is 980kPa (10kgf/mm2), and the use limit is 1500 hours. Density and tensile strength and usage limits are not described in GB and ISO standards. The speed specified by the three standards is (60±2) r/min. 

2. Polyurethane sample tube±1) mm, thickness (3.2±0.5) mm, outer diameter (31.5±1) mm, mass (52.25±1) g; The JIS standard stipulates that the tube length is 150mm, the thickness is 3mm, the outer diameter is 31mm, the mass is 51g, and the limit is 47g. If it is damaged, it should be replaced immediately. The hardness is also stipulated as (42)±5). 

3. Tape: GB and ISO standards specify PVC tape with a width of 19mm, and JIS specifies a vinyl tape with a width of about 18mm. Specimen size specified in GB and ISO standards is 125mm×125mm and 12mm from the edge after sewing, cut 6mm at each end for sewing deformation, turn out the inside and install it on the sample tube, with two samples in the warp and weft directions. The size of the sample specified in the JIS standard is 10mm×12mm, the sample is wound around the sample tube and then sutured with cotton yarn, two samples in the warp and weft direction. 

4. Test time GB recommends 7200r for woolen spinning and 14400r for worsted spinning; there is no uniform number of rotations specified in ISO; 10h for woven fabrics and 5h for knitted fabrics are usually set in JIS. For cashmere knitwear, woolen spinning is usually turned 7200r and worsted is 10800r.