Teach you to distinguish between good and bad wool coats
Wool coats have long been favored as essential and stylish choices for staying warm during the autumn and winter seasons. The design and color of a wool coat play a crucial role in making it fashionable and appealing to consumers. While walking down the street, a well-designed wool coat can effortlessly capture the attention of passersby.
However, not all wool coats are created equal. Understanding more about the materials used in wool coats is essential for making an informed judgment. One aspect to consider is recycled wool, which involves repurposing old woolen clothes. Manufacturers engaged in second-hand recycling collect a substantial amount of discarded woolen garments, either through direct recycling or from unsold stock in garment factories. These old woolen clothes can be dissolved and re-woven into new yarns, ultimately used to knit stylish woolen coats or sweaters. It's noteworthy that some economically priced woolen coat fabrics utilize recycled materials, with a higher likelihood in darker-colored fabrics. Recycled wool tends to be more affordable, often costing only a fraction of high-quality wool or even comparable to acrylic.
As the proverb goes, "The wool comes out of the sheep," emphasizing the importance of the quality of wool in crafting exceptional clothing. Finer wool, in particular, is highly sought after, as it allows for the production of better-quality fabrics. The trend towards lighter and thinner wool products has driven efforts to increase the fineness and yield of wool through selective breeding. Among the various breeds, Merino wool stands out, known for its fine wool with a diameter of 20 microns. The different breeds of Merino sheep, such as Spanish, French, German, Australian, American, South American, and Soviet Merino, all share excellent wool quality, making them ideal for high and medium-grade worsted and woolen spinning. Australia, with its long-standing commitment to improving Merino sheep, is the largest producer and supplier of Merino wool globally.
Another exquisite choice in the realm of wool products is cashmere. Boasting warmth eight times that of wool and a weight only one-fifth of wool, cashmere is considered the "soft gold" of textiles. Derived from the annual shedding of goat wool in spring, cashmere is known for its fineness, often below 16 microns, and a smooth texture due to thinner surface scales. Despite its lower production volume compared to wool, high-quality cashmere remains a luxury item in the fashion world. Notably, over 70% of the world's cashmere is now produced by white cashmere goats in China, renowned for their fine, soft, and elegant fibers.
To discern the quality of a wool coat, it's crucial to consider the wool content. Coats with lower wool content, below 50%, may feel thick and heavy, often due to the use of inferior wool. Mid-range coats, with wool content ranging from 50% to 95%, often blend wool with chemical fibers for a balance of warmth and weight. Moving up the scale, mid-to-high-end coats feature pure wool fabrics with a content of over 95%, typically in the range of 100 to 120 counts. For an even more luxurious experience, fabrics with counts exceeding 120 approach the feel of cashmere. The highest quality wool coats, labeled as "luxury," boast counts above 180, exemplified by renowned fabrics like the British Scabal SUPER250.
While fabric count is a key factor, it's essential to consider the overall craftsmanship and finishing of the coat. Large factories often produce well-finished fabrics, and a count of 100 from a reputable brand may surpass the quality of 130 from smaller manufacturers. Quality fabrics come at a price, reflecting the adage that you get what you pay for. When encountering high-end, heavily branded coats, it's advisable to carefully assess the brand's reputation and weigh the actual price-performance ratio.
In the realm of textile testing equipment, products like the "Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester" play a crucial role in evaluating the durability and quality of woolen fabrics. Similarly, advancements in textile testing equipment contribute to the continuous improvement of wool products, ensuring they meet the highest standards in terms of both material and craftsmanship.