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Comparative Analysis of Textile Color Fastness Standards to Dry Cleaning
The current national standard for evaluating the color fastness to dry cleaning of textile and clothing products is GB/T5711-1997 'Textile color fastness test for color fastness to dry cleaning'. The most influential foreign standard for evaluating this index is ISO 105- D01:2010 and AATCC TM 132–2009. GB/T5711–1997 adopts ISO105-D01:1993 equivalently, and ISO 105-D01:1993 has been replaced by ISO 105-D01:2010. In order to explore the difference of the test standards in evaluating the color fastness of textiles to dry cleaning, 10 samples were selected in this paper, and they were tested and analyzed according to the standards of GB/T5711-1997 and ISO 105-D01:2010. Test equipment and materials Test materials: corrosion-resistant stainless steel discs, undyed cotton twill, perchloroethylene, single-fiber series and multi-fiber (DW type) of standard lining fabrics for color fastness test, gray sample card for evaluating discoloration , Gray sample card and colorimetric tube for evaluating staining. During the test, 10 samples were tested according to GB/T5711-1997 and ISO 105-D01:2010. Among them, when testing according to ISO 105-D01:2010, the standard lining fabrics are selected from cotton, viscose, silk, wool, polyester, nylon and multi-fiber (DW type) as required. The gray scale is used to evaluate the discoloration, solvent staining of the sample and the staining grade of the standard lining fabric. From the data analysis, it can be seen that for most samples, the results obtained by the ISO 105-D01:2010 test are generally better than the results obtained by the GB/T5711-1997 test. In my country, GB/T5711-1997 is widely cited in the product standards of woven garments as a test method for evaluating the color fastness to dry cleaning, such as GB/T2664–2009 'Men's suits and coatsThe evaluation indicators for the color fastness to dry cleaning in these product standards are excellent products ≥ 4-5, first-class products ≥ 4, and qualified products ≥ 3-4. However, if the color fastness to dry cleaning of the sample is tested according to the ISO 105-D01:2010 standard, the result will be greatly changed when evaluated according to the existing product standard, or even change the evaluation conclusion, that is, part of the conformity is qualified. The new test results of products required by product indicators will meet the requirements of first-class or even superior products, and there will be many unqualified samples that will meet the current product standards for dry-cleaning fastness requirements, and even Meet the requirements of first-class products. In our country's standardization activities, our country's standards are generally formulated on the basis of existing international standards (including international standards that are about to be completed). GB/T5711-1997 is equivalent to ISO105-D01:1993. ISO 105-D01:2010 replaced ISO 105-D01:1993 on 2010-05-01, so GB/T5711 will be revised in accordance with the new international standard ISO 105-D01:2010 when it is revised. Both are in technical content. The above should be equivalent. In this way, the update of the aforementioned test standards for color fastness to dry cleaning will have an impact on the evaluation conclusions of many products. In terms of the current technical methods for evaluating the color fastness of textiles to dry cleaning, ISO 105-D01:2010 uses standard lining fabrics to evaluate the staining of the sample’s color fastness to dry cleaning, eliminating the previous assessment of the staining level of the reagent after dry cleaning. The practice represents a new development trend. Currently, the vast majority of dry cleaning reagents are perchloroethylene. The used tetrachloroethylene is distilled through the distillation system of the dry cleaning machine and then becomes clean tetrachloroethylene washing liquid again. The next time it is used, it is clean washing liquid. Therefore, from a practical point of view, evaluate the staining grade of the reagent after dry cleaning. The approach is of little significance. In a dry cleaning process, it is very possible to mix and wash clothes of multiple colors. Therefore, it is more common for the dyes peeled off from the clothes to contaminate other clothes. Therefore, the ISO105-D01:2010 evaluation standard is used for the stained fabric after dry cleaning. The color grading method has good practical value. Another relatively influential American Association of Textile Chemists and Dyeing Scientists test standard AATCC TM 132 adopted this method very early. Conclusions and Suggestions The current national standard GB/T5711–1997 will cause some fabrics that 'satisfy the requirements' to be discarded in technical content, or need to be treated with additional dyeing and finishing processes, which will lead to the use of 'threshold' for some fabrics. Unnecessary elevation and the consumption of unnecessary water, electricity, steam, labor and other resources in the additional dyeing and finishing process. This deviates from the current national advocates of reducing energy consumption and saving energy. It is not suitable for the current 'low' Carbon” trend. It should be revised according to new technological development trends and released for implementation as soon as possible. In order to avoid the occurrence of similar situations, it is recommended that the relevant national technical committees strengthen communication, and timely understand and grasp the technical trends of the relevant international standardization organizations, early detection, research and resolution of technical linkage issues between related standards, so that the standards are released and implemented The time and technical content are more suitable for our national conditions, better promote the improvement of our product quality, and then promote economic development. More about: Textile Testing Instruments
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Ball Burst Method (ASTM D3787): Steel ball penetration for textiles/films using testers like GT-C02-2.
Hydraulic Method (ISO 13938.1): Fluid pressure on rubber diaphragm for industrial fabrics via GT-C12A.
Pneumatic Method (ISO 13938.2): Compressed air for breathable materials tested with GT-C12B.
Results are influenced by raw materials, yarn properties,
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