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Fabric folded thickness and shrinkage detection method
1. Folding thickness of fabrics Fabrics are divided into thicknesses, and clothing made of fabrics also have thicknesses; this thickness is expressed by the folded amount, so the folded amount should be considered when the paper pattern is produced, and the folded amount indicates the degree of folding thickness of the fabric. Any clothing has The amount of folding is different in size. The thicker the fabric, the larger the amount of folding; the thinner the fabric, the smaller the amount of folding. Example: Folding amount of jeans made of denim W: 1.2cm K: 0.6cm H: 1.2cm SB: O.6 2. There are two kinds of fabric shrinkage Clothing fabrics: natural fabrics and chemical synthetic fabrics , Shrinkage rate school b: chemical synthetic fabrics: mainly polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl chloride, etc. woven from chemical synthetic fibers do not shrink. (The other is a blend of natural and chemical fabrics, such as polyester-cotton, with a small shrinkage rate) Due to the characteristics of natural fabrics, the phenomenon of shrinkage of natural fabrics after washing, the largest shrinkage of cotton and linen fabrics is remarkable. , In particular, most of the casual clothes use pure cotton fabrics, so the shrinkage rate must be considered when the paper samples are produced. No shrinkage rate: the size of a before washing is m and the size after washing is n, then a=m-n/m×100% Since there are two yarn directions of the fabric: horizontal and vertical, there are also two shrinkage rates: a vertical = m vertical - n vertical / m vertical×100% a horizontal = m horizontal - n horizontal / m horizontal×100% Generally speaking, the shrinkage rate of the fabric will be informed when the paper pattern is produced. If we do not know the shrinkage rate of the fabric, the following two methods can be used to obtain the shrinkage rate. a: First, without considering the shrinkage rate, directly produce an intermediate size paper pattern to make the board, and then take it to the washing factory to wash the water (note that the washing method must be the same as the washing method of large goods), after the washing water comes back, then To measure the board, compare it with the finished product specifications, subtract more and add less, this board is more accurate, but it takes too long to make the board. b: Take a piece of fabric for large goods, sew around the edges, draw a square in the middle of the cloth with a pen, the side length is 40cm, the two sides are parallel, and the two vertical lines are 40x40cm, and then wash with water. After washing back, measure each side of the square again, it becomes the data of 36x36cm. Reuse a=m-n/m×100% a vertical 40-38/40×100%=8% a horizontal=40-36/40×100%=10% Therefore, the shrinkage rate of the fabric: straight: 5% horizontal: 10% However, considering the fixing effect of the stitches, the shrinkage rate of the clothing is actually slightly smaller, so it should be determined according to the specific situation. To find a vertical and a horizontal, use a vertical to find the length, and a horizontal to find the circumference. The purpose of finding the shrinkage rate is to find the data K before washing. From the shrinkage rate formula, it can be deduced that K=? Then it is introduced: K vertical = e vertical / 1-a vertical (to find the length of the garment) K horizontal = e horizontal / 1-a horizontal (to find the circumference of the garment) For the parts where the vertical and horizontal are connected, the shrinkage rate is the average value , such as the waist and the trousers weave are perpendicular to each other Example: w: 66cm-68.6cm (shrinkage: straight 3% / horizontal 4%) SL: 55.9-57.5cm
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