Analysis of 43 methods of cosmetic efficacy evaluation

Cosmetics is currently a relatively large consumer market. The safety of cosmetics is also a topic of high concern. The safety of cosmetics has different concerns from different perspectives. This article focuses on analyzing the efficacy of cosmetics from the perspective of efficacy. Test methods and standards. The testing methods (43 types) of cosmetic functional layers are as follows: 1. The skin moisture content can be measured directly or indirectly, such as capacitance method, conductance method, near-infrared spectroscopy, etc. Different methods can reflect different skin depths. The moisture content situation. Commonly used instruments include the Corneometer CM825 skin moisture tester from CK in Germany, the MoistureMeter SC Compact skin hydration meter from Delfin in Finland, the Epsilon dielectric imaging system from Biox Systems Ltd in the UK, MoistureMap MM 100 from CK in Germany, and IBS from Japan. The Skicon-200EX skin hygrometer, the Near IRSTA HN1100 produced by South Korea’s SPECTRON TECH company, etc. 2. Skin barrier capacity Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) refers to the water evaporated through the epidermis. TEWL is an important parameter for evaluating skin barrier function. The better the skin barrier, the lower the TEWL value. By measuring the TEWL value, the repairing effect of cosmetics on the skin's moisturizing barrier can be evaluated. The instruments used include Tewameter TM300 from CK in Germany, Aquaflux AF200 from Biox Systems in the United Kingdom, and Vapoometer from Delfin in Finland. 3. Measurement of stratum corneum desquamation The stratum corneum plays an important role in the skin barrier function. When the desmosomes between cells disappear and the connections between cells are loosened, the flat keratinocytes will fall off the surface of the skin in a scaly shape. Through the analysis of dander The rate of exfoliation and the shape of the dander can predict the integrity of the skin barrier. The stratum corneum desquamation layer can be sampled using the D-scale sticky disc from CUDERM in the United States, and the amount of dander in the measurement area can be quantified according to the standard chart of adhesion dander density provided by the manufacturer. 4. Stinging experiment People with sensitive skin will experience a more obvious tingling or burning sensation when exposed to a certain concentration of lactic acid. Skin barrier damage is considered to be an important cause of skin sensitivity. The lactic acid sting test STING TEST can be used to compare the stinging sensation difference of lactic acid stingers before and after using skin care products to judge the barrier repair function of skin care products. In addition to lactic acid, Capsicum is also used as an irritant in the actual sting test. 5. Skin oil content For healthy skin, a certain amount of sebum is necessary, but excessive sebum secretion will lead to acne, seborrheic dermatitis and other diseases. The efficacy of oil-control skin care products can be objectively evaluated by measuring the level of sebum. Commonly used instruments include Sebumeter from CK Company in Germany, SebumScale from Delfin Company in Finland, etc. There are similar configurations in the Dermalab Series SkinLab Combo set from Cortex Company in Denmark. 6. Skin complexion At present, the most commonly used colorimeters are Minolta colorimeter CR series, such as CR-400, CR-410, and spectrophotometer CM series, such as CM-2500d and CM-2600d. Among them, CR-410 uses a pulsed xenon arc lamp to illuminate the skin surface, and then calculates the reflectance point by point to obtain a photometric curve, and finally convert the measured value into an L*a*b* three-dimensional colorimetric system. Among them, the L* value (0~100) is related to the melanin content, the a* value (-60~60) represents the balance from red to green, and it is related to the hemoglobin content in the dermis, and the b* value (-60~60) represents The balance from yellow to blue. The Mexameter MX18 of CK company in Germany calculates the absorbance of the surface skin from the reflectance when light of 3 wavelengths (568 nm, 660 nm, 880 nm) is irradiated on the skin, and calculates the melanin value from this value. M and heme value E. 7. Skin gloss The skin surface gloss is reflected by the direct reflection and diffuse reflection of the light irradiated on the skin surface. The Skin-Glossymeter GL 200 of the German CK company can accurately and conveniently test the gloss of different skins by testing the reflected light and scattered light on the skin surface. GonioLux, a skin brightness tester from Orion TechnoLab, France, is also a similar test equipment. 8. Skin transparency When light is irradiated on the skin, a small amount of light will be reflected on the skin surface, the remaining light will enter the skin, part of it will be absorbed by hemoglobin and melanin, and the rest will be emitted out of the skin, usually from the skin The amount of internal reflected light evaluates the transparency of the skin. The amount of light entering the skin largely depends on the state of the stratum corneum. When the water content of the stratum corneum is high, the amount of light entering the skin increases, the reflected light inside the skin increases, and the sense of transparency increases.

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