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Down garment drilling mechanism and fabric anti-drilling performance test method

by:GESTER Instruments     2021-04-04
Since the warmth retention of feathers and down has been recognized and used by people, down jackets have been favored by consumers at home and abroad for their softness, warmth and comfort. With the improvement of people's living standards, down jackets are becoming more and more fashionable. The design has changed from the traditional bloated and rigid image, but has become thinner and more fashionable. It is not only winter clothing, but also the number one winter fashion. protagonist. Nowadays, it is more and more common for a person to own several down jackets. While down jackets bring warmth and comfort to winter, they also bring troubles to some consumers. Drill down is one of the most prominent problems. Drilling down refers to the feathers and down in the down jacket from the fabric and lining. If the drill fleece is drilled inward, feathers and fleece will stick to the sweater, or even get into the underwear, making people feel scratched and unhappy. If you drill outwards, it will affect the appearance of the whole garment. Drifting down in the air can make sensitive people feel uncomfortable and even cause respiratory diseases. For apparel companies, solving the problem of drilling down is also one of the elements of whether down jackets can step into high-end clothing. 1. Research on the structural characteristics of feathers and down and the mechanism of down jacket drilling. The problem of down jacket drilling must first start with the structural characteristics of feathers and down. Feather refers to a substance that covers the surface of ducks and geese, which is light, tough, elastic and waterproof, and grows from the keratinization of the epidermis. Feathers can be divided into down feathers and fibrous feathers according to their structure. The positive feathers cover most of the body surface of the birds, have a complete structure, and are composed of feather shafts, feather branches and feather silk. It has a shaft-shaped hard stem from top to bottom in the middle, called the feather shaft (the upper part of the feather shaft is called the feather shaft, and the lower part is called the feather root). There are fine feather branches on both sides of the feather shaft. There are second-order small feather branches, and each feather branch can be regarded as a small 'feather' with dense third-order small feather branches on both sides. Repeated this way, a complete pinnae is formed, which is what we usually call the raw film (Figure 1). Under the microscope, the feather twigs show finer feather hooks, and the whole feather is knitted and connected by these hooks (Figure 2). Down feathers are distributed on the whole body of poultry and are covered by positive feathers to form an insulating layer. It is the most valuable part. According to its shape, it can be divided into velvet, immature velvet and similar velvet. The core part is velvet. The shape of the velvet is just like a 'pompon'. The center of the 'pomball' has a very small nucleus called the nucleus. From the nucleus, many fine and slender filaments are called down. Each filament There are fluffy velvet twigs on it to form floret-like velvet (Figure 3), but for the more fully developed or larger velvet velvet, there will be secondary velvet branches on the main velvet. The immature velvet is known by its name as the velvet that has not grown mature. Its velvet is short, has a small handle, and is umbrella-shaped (Figure 4). The similar downy is hairy with stems, the stems are thin and soft, the feather branches are dense, and the tips are silky and disorderly (Figure 5). Under the microscope, the feather branches, feather silk and down silk of goose and duck down will present a huge tree-like picture. The tree uses feather branches, feather silk and down silk as the 'trunk'BranchesThe next-order feathers and down filaments extend from a certain direction or several directions at the node. The slender feather is smaller than the down feather and shaped like hair. It has only one feather stem. Few and short feather branches grow from its top. The slender feather is distributed in various parts of the body of a bird. Its function is to feel the sense of touch, and its value is not high ( As shown in Figure 7). Down fiber is a protein fiber, but it is different from other protein fibers. From the perspective of its internal tissue structure, the basic unit is microtubule cells. Macromolecules are curled when forming microtubule cells, so a large number of down fibers are formed inside. The hollow and the cross-section of the down fiber is a hollow structure, which has the ability to contain still air. The down hairs are charged, and their electrostatic capacitance is extremely small. As long as a small amount of electric charge, the hairs repel each other and separate from each other. In down jackets, down as a filler, there are thousands of such fibers trying to keep the maximum distance between each other, so that the fluffiness is produced, which makes the down close to the fabric squeeze outward, thereby An external force is generated to make the down close to the fabric. When the garment is rubbed or squeezed by external force, the still air filled in the down jacket will drill out from the gap of the fabric or the sewing needle hole of the connecting part of the two fabrics. At this time, the down close to the fabric will also drill out of the gap with the air. It can be seen that the drill down is related to the following three aspects: the down content, the density and thread density of the fabric, and the size of the gap left when the sewing thread passes through the fabric. 2. Test method of anti-drilling performance Anti-drilling performance refers to the performance of fabrics to prevent feathers and downs from drilling out of its surface, expressed by the number of drilled downs under specified conditions. In my country, there are two methods for testing the anti-drilling properties of textile fabrics: friction method and rotating box method.
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